1998 Ram Tow Mirrors installed on the 1998 Durango.

 

I ordered the ones for a 1998 Ram from 1A Auto. They are the 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Truck Mirror Power Heated Signal Upgrade Flip-Up Black Textured Cap Pair.

I already had the Dumbo tow mirror on the D, but needed to go bigger to see around the camper. I also looked up the mod it takes to make the LED lights on them running lights and turn signals. Pretty easy mod to do and costs about 4 bucks to do it.

These new mirrors fit a little bigger and new holes have to be drilled. They came with the support brackets also to help secure them and keep them from vibrating.

These are the Dumbo Mirrors, they pretty much fit into the recessed area on the door.



They didn't come with the support bracket, but being OEM, they never vibrated. Removing nuts here.

They were power only.

D is power only also, but that will change soon enough.

Original holes which worked for the Sport Mirrors to the Dumbo Mirrors.

Drilled out new holes and tweaked them with a Dremel.

Support bracket

After treating the metal with JASCO Prep and Prime, I brushed on Zinc.

A few coats of Zinc and there will be no rust.

The arrows point to where the metal tab was screwed on to hold the wires in place. Since this mirror is bigger, that needs to be removed as the wires need to come right out the center between the three studs. To do this correctly, you will need to grind a notch for the to lay in so they will not be pinched when mirror is bolted down.

The red arrows show where the wires original ran. The blue wires show where the notch needs to be.

After removing the piece that was poking out to far. It needs to be flushed across the base plate.

You can have someone hold the mirror in place or tape it in place like I did. Once I was ready to bolt it down, I used Loctite Polyurethane Sealant, Roof and Flashing. The same stuff I used in a lot of my projects. It comes in tubes and is applied with a caulk gun.

I gooped it into the holes real good and all around the studs. This will ensure the mirrors do not vibrate or leak.

Then placed the Support Bracket on and tightened the bolts down nice and tight. Work your way around them like you would on lug nuts. The Support Bracket will bend and mold to the door area.

I then ran a thick bead down one side of the support to ensure it will not vibrate at all.

This is how the new ones fit, which is a little bigger than the old ones.

I did get this gap closed up some, but I think I will come back later and tape them off all the way around and caulk them up with the Polyurethane. I show how to do that and get a clean line. You cannot treat that stuff like silicon, it is to sticky and messy for that. But the Polyurethane will last for years and not come loose like Silicon does.

This diagram shows how I wired the LEDs on the mirrors to work in both Parking Light mode and Turn Signal mode. You will need two Resistors and four Diodes for this circuit build. I bought mine form Radio Shack. The Resistors are 470 Ohms, 1/2 Watt and the Diodes are Silicon Diodes 50v - 1A IN4001 - Micromini.

The purpose of this is that the resistors will dim the LEDs down while the Parking Lights are on. Then when you click the Turn Signal, the LEDs light up full power as they blink. Also during the day without the Parking Lights on, the Turn Signals will blink normal.

The four Diodes keep the currents from back feeding into each other. The Diodes are one way, so the Turn Signal current cannot feed back into the Parking Light wire and the Parking Light current cannot feed back into the Turn Signal wire. Simple enough huh? lol!

I soldered two red wires to the Parking Lights, Black Wire w/Yellow stripe. I also disconnected the plug to work with it better.

Here is the Resistor/Diode setup. One for each mirror. Hard to see, back the Silver Band is facing the Resistor, which is towards the mirror. That way the Parking Light current can travel towards the mirror, but the current from the Turn Signals will be stopped at this Diode.

The two Turn Signals on the Left. Brown goes to the Tan Wire for the Right Blinker, Light Green to the Left Blinker. The two Red wires go to the Black w/Yellow stripe Parking Lights. Make sure you test all the wires at the Plug with a Fluke Meter or test light to determine which wire is which.

Here I am set up for the Left Mirror. The Red and Black wires on the right come from the mirror. The Black is grounded, the Red ties into the Turn Signal and Parking Light wires. I tested the mirror here before soldering it all up and heat shrinking everything.

The Resistor and Diode on top are from the Parking Lights, the Diode on the bottom soldered to the Green wire is the Turn Signal Wire. Notice the Diodes are facing each other? Then the Red wire from the mirror is soldered to both of them. Then the heat shrink is pulled down over it all to protect it.

Both sides done.

Back at the plug, I used Liquid Tape on the joints I soldered. Two good coats are enough to protect them.

Soldered the two ground wires together.

Heat shrink

Ground area

New tow mirrors down

Up

Overall

Drove around town some with them up and I can see they will take some getting used to. I feel as if they are sticking out so much, I'll hit things.

Video of them in Daytime and Nighttime.