Water Rescue 1

1987 H600 Hurricane Zodiac 23ft with a 150 Outboard Mercury Motor

On March 25, 2013 Station @ C-Shift Crew proceeded to refurbish Water Rescue 1 from the hull up, as well as the trailer it sits on. This task would last a year as the boat was dismantled down to the last nut and bolt. The plan was to refurbish the boat to a working state that would last for years.

Captain Steve Strickhuasen, Engineer Greg Garret, Engineer Mark Pandanell, Engineer Tyler Ponder, Engineer Nicholas Kresta, Firefighter Hector Batista, Firefighter Shane Skiles, Firefighter Andrew Marcellus undertook this project. Also involved were Firefighters who had floating assignments to Station 2 during this period. Captain Shane Martin of B-Shift shot the red paint on the boat.

Thanks goes out to the following businesses:

Raymond and Sam of Tennille Fabricators
928 4th Ave. S. in Texas City

Joe and Bobby at Texas Performance Powdercoating
811 9th Street N. -Texas City

Ed Harper and crew at Safe Floor
12008 Highway 146 in Dickinson

A & J Custom Auto Trim
18 Highway 146 in Texas City

Triad Marine
1155 FM 518 in Kemah

Mickey's Marine
2202 4th Ave. in La Marque

Industrial Materials Corporation
7701 Harborside Drive in Galveston

****We are waiting on the new tubes to be built. Once the company out of Canada finishes them, the boat will go to Triad Marine to be installed. So once that is done, I will update webpage.****

There are over 250 photos in this album.

Battery 1

Battery 2

Battery Switch

All the wiring was a mess

Blocks of wood holding equipment in, rust setting in on non-stainless hardware

Wiring tie wrapped together instead of being cut to length

Will be dismantled, cleaned and re-greased for smoother operation

Dis-mantling the boat

Pulled the front storage box

Labeling and removing electronics and wiring

Removed the back rack to send to Tennille Fabricating for minor repairs, then to Texas Performance Coating to be powder coated.

Time to remove everything from the center console, then pull it.

Going to remove the old battery trays, middle aluminum piece, old battery connectors and all wiring

Removed old fuel filter and holder

The Transom Saver was made out of a thin aluminum piece, which was pretty beat up and had stress cracks. It was removed.

Center Console is out

Deck is cleared, time to remove cover plates

Removing everything from old dash

With center plate removed, wires are next

An old mounting plate removed

Old Battery Trays were next

Center hatch was opened and revealed stagnant water. The drain holes through the hull brackets to the back of the boat were clogged up with debris.

Fuel tank hatch was removed to reveal a badly corroded tank

Took it to Tennille Fabricating to have a new one built

Tennille's also fabricated a new heavy duty stainless Transom Saver. Doesn't look like much now, but wait...

Everything else on the transom was removed to prepare it for paint.

The new T-Top came in and was fitted to mount over the Center Console later

Then we started on the Center Console to prepare it to go to Tennille's and then powder coating

Mocking up the new look

Then we removed the side doors, cut out the main dash area, the front bar and the lower front so two doors could be made. That way we would have two side doors and two front doors.

Then off to Tennille's

Ready to go to Texas Performance Coatings

The back rack being repaired at Tennille's

Working on the new T-Top, installing everything on it.

LED lights on front and sides

Captain Strickhausen

Dry box mounted

Pieces are back from powdercoating

Started preparing rear hull area so Captain Martin could paint it

Engineer Garrett (left) and Engineer Ponder (right) with the Transom Guard they polished out.

Placed on transom, but not pushed into place just yet.

New fuel tank set back in. Then a little message written on it for anyone who might open the deck up in the future.

Getting ready to put the cover back over the fuel tank.


Preparing the new LED Strobes to be waterproofed.
A good coating of Polyureathane

Fitted them together

Wiped away the excess

Removed tape and they are sealed

Then mocked up some brackets to fabricate, then mount them to the T-Top

The two large pieces we fabricated up to mount the radar to. The smaller front piece is the mount for one of the LED strobes.

Clear coated all the mounts

Installing the fabric

Then started running the new wires throughout the T-Top after drilling holes.

Firefighter Skiles

Mounting and wiring the radar

This shows that after finishing up with the wiring, we used polyureathane to seal off the holes.

The new flat look

We need to remove all this and install it on the new console

Looking in through the front two doors. This is the new back wall that everything will mount to. With this, holes do not have to be drilled through the center console as before.

Holes cut out for the gauges, steering wheel and shifter, you can see we also installed a new floor piece in it to mount to.

Mounting the back bar first

LED light mounted on top

Then placed the center console in

Running wires from underneath

Running wires to back bar

Every wire throughout boat was soldered then heat shrink placed on it.

Soldered with heat shrink

Doors put back on

Masked off all around console to run a bead of Polyurethane Sealant by Loctite.We used this sealant throughout the boat. It is excellent for projects.

Once you remove the tape, you have a nice clean line. On certain projects, you will tape off both sides to get a clean line. Since we are having a Safe Floor installed we are only worried about having a clean line towards the paint.

Installed small LEDs on the sides of the console to light up the floor area at night

Installed the center plate and sealed it

The wires for the LED light that will go under the seat

Back plate installed and sealed

Cut an access hole to the fuel tank fittings

Preparing area for the leaning post/rear seat

Fuel filter installed

LEDs to light up name plate at night

Front box mounted and waiting for a new latch

Fire extinguisher holders lined with rubber

Sealing places with Loctite Polyurethane that saltwater will corrode if allowed to sit

Non skid to protect area from scuff marks

Used the Polyurethane Sealant to hold the wires in place for the LED light underneath the seat.

Same thing on the floor, except the Safe Floor will lay right over these wires.

Mounted a toogle switch and LEd under the center console

Removing the prop revealed a mess or plastic and fishing line

A lot of salt build up from over the years behind the prop that had to be cleaned up

Lower unit pretty abused

Removed the lower unit to change out the water pump

It is a mess

Wet sanding it to prepare it for paint

Shot it with Self Etching Primer since it is aluminum

Then a few coats of filler primer, sanding it out inbetween

Then shot it with Phantom Black Pearl

The Safe Floor was installed

They even put a logo in it

Installing the cushions

Fabricated brackets to hold the two extinguishers in place

Once mocked up, they were removed, clear coated, re-installed and sealed around the edges with the Polyurethane

Motor cleaned and waxed, lower unit installed, prop polished and waxed, then Keel Guard installed.

The trailer rebuild

The trailer was sent out with other parts and was stripped and re-dipped. New axles and springs as well as every nut and but in stainless

A new tongue, replacing the old one with a non working brake assembly.

Wiring for the trailer lights was ran as one piece down each side. This allowed for the connections at the tongue and lights to be completely out of the water. These connections were soldered and heat shrinked to last longer.

Once we finished our part, it was sent to Mickey's Marine so they could place the outside boards on it, adjust them all to the boat and then place the boat on it.

At the Dike
Look for updates soon once the new tubes are installed.