1998 DODGE DURANGO
4X4
5.9
White
I
have a Prestige Platinum Alarm installed. It has the remote start and a pager.
I also had the glass sensor installed with it. Red flashing lights are installed
in the headlight assembly and come on when key is turned off.
The install was done by Dominic, the owner of Elite Sound and Security, Inc
at 2437 Palmer HWY, Texas City, Texas.
I have also installed a set of the Chrome 3D Tail lights
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I have also installed what I call Dumbo Mirrors. They are large than the Sport Mirror set up. Click HERE to see the install and where I got them at.

I just added these headlights. They are New Genration Angel Eyes and are two times brighter.
They have the Cold Cathode Flourescent Lights in them. They light up the road like a stadium. Plus the row of small lights are the LED turn signals.
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I have a 15" Black Chrome Antenna

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I just added the flame vinyl to the hood. I purchased this through Scott Manthey, Director Sales and Marketing of Trucktrenz.com.
This red is a new kind of material. Very high end. It's a nine year PMS color matched vinyl with a white "repositionable" adhesive. The adhesive is pigmented white to block out the color of whatever the vinyl is put on. That's the only way to have a PMS (Pantone Matched) color remain accurate. The new "repositionable" adhesive is designed to allow people to make minor adjustments after the decal has been applied.
Please contact him at the Website above for info on getting yours.
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I installed
the Nu Image Flaming Gauge kit.
I also layed a brushed aluminum bezel over the gauges.
Click
here to see where to purchase Flame Gauges.
Speedhut
is where the Bezel overlay was purchased.
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I
have installed a cold air intake I purchased from IntakePower off of Ebay.
If you are interested in one at a low price you can visit his Ebay Store HERE.
I also have installed a PowerAid Throttle Body Spacer and a chip to make the
engine believe colder air is coming in.
I added a Bosch Electric Fan from a Volvo.
After removing the stock clutch fan and installing this fan I have felt the increase in horespower which some claim is 17%. I can now feel the power and pickup since the stock fan has been removed. This fan moves a lot of air and has kept my engine running cooler than the stock fan did.
This is an alternative to installing an aftermarket fan to cut down on cost.
![]() After the fan shroud has been removed. Remove the belt then the fan. Remove the fan with a wrench on the bolt and a small pipe wrench to secure the pulley. They do have a special tool to secure the pulley if you can get a hold of one. |
![]() I removed the two top mounts with a hacksaw. You can see the one in the top left before it was removed. |
![]() The arrows are pointing to where the top mount was removed. This is so it will clear the A/C line. There is a gap of about 1 to 1 1/2" from the top. This has not effected cooling. |
![]() Info on the type of fan I used. I picked mine up off of Ebay for about 15 dollars. |
![]() I used a zip tie to hold the fan in place until I could install all four of the Nylon Mounting Rods |
![]() Arrows point to where the top two Nylon Mounting Rods are installed. The holes for these were already in place and the tie only went through the radiator |
![]() I had to drill holes for the bottom two ties. They went through the radiator and the A/C cooler for the bottom two. |
![]() This is the bottom tie coming out through the radiator and the A/C cooler. These took a little patience to get through both the radiator and A/C cooler. |
![]() The fan left a 4" gap at the bottom of the radiator. But with the amount of air it moves it still keeps the engine cooler than the stock fan. |
![]() Here is the fan installed. |
![]() Nylon Ties I used to secure fan. You can get these at any automotive store. They are sold for mounting transmission coolers. |
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Installed
a 3" body lift. It took me about 6 hours by myself. I did have some help
when it came time to lift the body while putting the blocks in place.
I purchased the body lift from Central4wd.com
for 185.00.
I have Aqua neon under the dash to light up both driver and passenger floorboards.
I have installed a Holly Flowtech Afterburner from local auto parts place in town. It only cost 49 dollars. Go here to see the pic at the Holly Website.
I have finished the install of a stereo system in my D. I found out real quick that the D is for people room only as there is no space for anything else.
This
is a list of the equipment installed:
Kenwood CD Receiver KDC-2019 with remote
Kenwood 10 pack CD Changer
Phoenix Gold EQ 215x with bass gain remote
Lanzar Vibe 435, 4 channel, 1600 watt, viberant amp
StreetWire distribution block and grounding block with StreetWire wires throughout
2 Kicker 15" XPL speakers
I installed Kenwoods all the way around in doors.
It took me about 2 weeks to build and install the system.
![]() Front of sub box with red arrow showing porthole for wires |
![]() Sealed box where wires run to amp for concealment from view |
![]() Back view of sub box showing hole where wires come out and run to amp. This way all wires running to amp are out of view. |
![]() Sub box after I covered it with gray carpet to match interior |
![]() I installed the EQ inside the middle fold down seat back |
![]() This is with the cover panel I made and covered with black vinyl. All wires ran inside seat and down under carpet |
![]() I installed the CD Changer inside the center console. Only part showing is where I load the CD pack |
![]() This shows the CD door closed. I cut the inside tub of the console to custom fit giving it a flushed look |
![]() Arrows point to bass control knob I installed in overhead |
![]() Arrows pointing to where wires will run into amp enclosure |
![]() After putting on enclosure. This enclosure is pressure fitted in place |
![]() Completed rear view of sub box. Arrows point to where distribution block is mounted and where wires run into box for amp |
![]() Front of sub box showing 2 Kicker XPL 15's. Due to limited space box is not built to specs. Though bass sounds tight it is clean |
![]() This is how I ride, with rear seat down. If enough people ride with me I can put rear seat up. Note EQ mounted in middle seat back. It can be up or down. If the four year old rides in here, I will definitly keep it up! |
![]() KDC-2019 Kenwood |
![]() Here is where I ran my hot wire. Red arrows point to bracket that holds Flextite and also to the front inline fuse. It is safe to have an inline fuse at the front and rear of D in case of a short occuring anywhere along hot wire. *See below for full description |
![]() Here is where the hot wire is running underneath the D |
![]() The arrows show where it runs through the floor into the D |
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Here is the Flextite I used to run the 4 gauge hot wire under truck. *see below |
I
have since moved the ground wire from the rear seat bolt down to the
frame. I was getting some noise that was intermitent throughout system.
Turn signal noise in speakers ect.. |
*I ran my hot wire down underneath the truck. First I ran it through a Metallic Liquid-Tight Flexible Conduit. It takes 2 kits to complete as it is a long run from the engine compartment to where I entered the cab area. You can locate the connector to use that connects the 2 Flextites together in the same area that the Flextite kits are located. I got my kits at Lowes. They are used for running the electrical wires from an outside central air unit to the house. With the metal lining in the conduit, it protects the 4 gauge hot wire. The conduit is also good to use on the 4 guage grounding wire, if you opt to run the ground from your grounding block to the frame. I used to compete in the USAC stereo competitions with another truck and this method got me a lot of points. The 4 guage wire is perfect for running through the Flextite, though it can be a job sometimes.
I recently downgraded from 33" tires to the 32" tires. The D is more responsive and it gave me 2 more miles to the gallon. They are BF Goodrich All Terrains.
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![]() Here is my D and my fire truck Ladder 18 |